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How to Read Jewelry Like an Expert

 Ever lifted a pair of earrings or a necklace and thought, "It looks nice but is it really of good quality?" You’re certainly not the one. Most of us become enchanted by how jewelry looks but only a few can decode a piece—knowing what it’s composed of how it’s fashioned and whether the price tag is justified. 

The good news? You don’t need years of experience as a jeweller to develop a sharp eye. A couple of hints are enough to let you spot top notch quality, craftsmanship and those subtle design flourishes, like a seasoned professional. Welcome to your crash course on reading jewelry like an expert. Think of this as your crash course in jewelry literacy — practical and easy to follow. 

STEP 1: THE SPARKLE SCIENCE — UNDERSTANDING STONES AND SHINE 

Start with the stones if you want to spot quality at a glance.  

Stone Type 

What to Look For 

Expert’s Tip 

Red Flag 

Cubic Zirconia (CZ) 

Clear and consistent sparkle with no cloudiness 

Hold under natural light. Good CZ catches rainbow hues subtly 

Milky or overly white appearance means low quality 

Moissanite 

Fire and brilliance that often surpasses diamonds 

Look for sharp and clean facets  

Dull center or double refraction (blurry sparkle) 

Kundan / Polki 

Traditional stones set with gold foil 

Back should look neatly enclosed, not messy 

Rough foil or uneven setting 

Gemstones 

Consistent color saturation 

Hold against a white background. Color should stay rich 

Patchy hues or bubbles = imitation 

Quick Quiz: Can you spot the difference between cloudy CZ and Moissanite under sunlight? Try comparing your pieces next time. You’ll start noticing how true sparkle dances differently. 

                                                                                         

STEP 2: THE METAL CHECK — SHINE ISN’T EVERYTHING 

A lot of people think the metal’s brightness equals quality. Not quite! It’s the tone, feel, and finish that reveal craftsmanship. 

Metal Type 

What to Observe 

How to Test Quality 

Common Mistake 

Sterling Silver (925) 

Slightly cool tone with moderate shine 

Look for 925 or Sterlinghallmark 

Over-polishing makes it too white. Natural silver has a soft glow 

Gold-Plated / Gold-Toned 

Warm hue with even coating 

Check inner clasp or back side. The color should match 

Uneven tones or fading edges = thin plating 

Antique / Oxidized Silver 

Dual-tone contrast (dark crevices, light highlights) 

Texture should feel solid and not chalky 

Overdone oxidation can look artificial 

Brass / Alloy 

Lightweight and warmer tone 

Check if it feels balanced. Good brass isn’t too light 

Extremely lightweight = hollow or low-quality mix 

Pro Tip: Run your finger along the metal’s edge. A finely finished piece feels smooth and never scratchy.  

                                                                                                

STEP 3: THE DETAILING DECODER — LOOK CLOSELY AT THE CRAFT 

Attention to detailing is something that separates expert eyes from casual buyers. Here’s a mini expert checklist: 

Detail Type 

What Good Quality Looks Like 

What Poor Quality Looks Like 

Stone Setting 

Stones sit flush with metal; no gaps 

Uneven spacing, visible glue 

Prongs 

Smooth and symmetrical. Securely holding stone 

Sharp or uneven edges. Loose stones 

Engraving / Etching 

Crisp lines and consistent depth 

Faint or smudged markings 

Symmetry 

Both earrings or motifs mirror each other perfectly 

Off-balance shapes and uneven length 

Finish 

Polished yet soft to touch 

Overly glossy or rough texture 

Tarinika Tip: Our artisans spend hours refining just the edges of a design. The signature of true craftsmanship is symmetry in delicate work like filigree or jali patterns. 

                                      

STEP 4: THE WEIGHT WISDOM — FEEL BEFORE YOU FALL FOR IT 

Quality jewelry has a certain substance to it. Not heavy enough to hurt but just enough to feel present

Type 

Ideal Feel 

Meaning 

Stud Earrings 

Light yet stable 

Indicates solid back construction 

Bracelets / Bangles 

Balanced weight around wrist 

Even metal distribution. Won’t dent easily 

Necklaces /Chokers 

Weighted around center 

Ensures necklace drapes elegantly 

Jhumkas /Danglers 

Moderate weight with soft swing 

Suggests proper alignment and strong joints 

Pro Tip: Heavier isn’t always better but balanced weight always means quality design. 

                             

STEP 5: THE COMFORT FACTOR — QUALITY YOU CAN FEEL 

Luxury is beyond looks. It’s how it feels after three hours of wearing it. A well-crafted piece never pinches or leaves marks. Here’s how to assess wearability instantly: 

Jewelry Type 

Comfort Clues 

Red Flags 

Earrings 

Smooth post, secure back & even weight 

Loose clasps, sharp ends & uneven pull 

Necklaces 

Flexible links, non-snagging chain 

Stiff, catches on hair 

Bangles / Cuffs 

Smooth inner edge, easy slide-on 

Sharp joins, poor finishing 

Rings 

Rounded inner band, fits true to size 

Edges dig into skin 

Mini Challenge: Pick your favorite pair of earrings and wear them for 30 minutes at home. Do they feel light and secure?  

                                                         

 STEP 6: THE RED FLAGS YOU CAN SPOT INSTANTLY 

Let’s go through a quick “spot the fake” guide before we wrap up. These are the things every jewelry expert avoids at first glance: 

Red Flag 

What It Means 

Stones look glued in 

Poor setting or imitation 

Too-bright yellow metal 

Over-plated brass or fake gold finish 

Light-as-air necklaces 

Hollow construction. May dent easily 

Scratches or uneven shine 

Machine polish or low-quality coating 

No hallmark or brand tag 

Untraceable metal quality 

 

 

Remember: Quality reveals itself quietly through balance, texture, and attention to the tiniest details. 

 

FINAL THOUGHTS: BECOMING THE EXPERT 

Learning to read jewelry is about training your eye and trusting your instincts

Here’s your quick recap table: 

Expert Skill 

What to Do 

Why It Matters 

Observe Sparkle 

Study light reflection and clarity 

Reveals stone quality 

Check Metal Tone 

Compare edges, tone consistency 

Confirms plating and purity 

Feel the Weight 

Notice substance without bulk 

Indicates construction integrity 

Wear-Test Comfort 

Check smoothness and balance 

Defines usability 

Ask the Story 

Learn design inspiration 

Builds emotional connection 

You’ll never look at jewelry the same way again once you start noticing these details.  You’ll instantly know when a piece is crafted with care. Tarinika’s artisans create every antique choker or temple jhumkas with intention and precision. 

So, the next time someone asks, “How do you always pick the best pieces?”, just smile and say — 
“I read jewelry like a pro.”  

 

 

  • Blog by: Divyangana Thakur
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